Tuesday, June 4, 2024

Portugal - Lisbon, Porto, Cascais and Algarve

Planning - Overview

Here’s a detailed itinerary for your trip to Portugal, focusing on a mix of must-see attractions and off-the-beaten-path experiences.


Friday, September 27: Arrival in Lisbon

Arrival: 5:45 AM

Morning:

  • Breakfast: Nicolau Lisboa – Start your day with a healthy breakfast at this trendy café in the Baixa district.
  • Explore Alfama: Wander through the narrow streets of Alfama, Lisbon’s oldest district. Visit the São Jorge Castle for panoramic views of the city.

Lunch:

  • Off-the-beaten-path: Taberna Sal Grosso – A cozy spot with traditional Portuguese dishes in a casual setting.
  • Must-see: Time Out Market – A gourmet food market offering a variety of dishes from renowned chefs.

Afternoon:

  • Belém: Head to the Belém district. Visit the Jerónimos Monastery and Belém Tower.
  • Pastry Stop: Don’t miss Pastéis de Belém for the famous custard tarts.

Evening:

  • Dinner: Off-the-beaten-path: Pharmacia – A quirky restaurant with a beautiful view over the river.
  • Must-see: Cervejaria Ramiro – Famous for its seafood, especially the garlic prawns.

Overnight: Stay in Lisbon for the night.


Saturday, September 28: Lisbon to Sintra and Cascais

Morning:

  • Sintra: Take an early train to Sintra (30-40 mins from Lisbon). Visit the Pena Palace and Quinta da Regaleira.

Lunch:

  • Sintra Village: Enjoy a meal at Tascantiga, offering local tapas and a cozy atmosphere.

Afternoon:

  • Cascais: Take a short drive to Cascais. Stroll through the coastal town, visit the Boca do Inferno cliffs, and relax on the beach.

Evening:

  • Dinner: Return to Lisbon and dine at Taberna da Rua das Flores for a mix of traditional and modern Portuguese cuisine.

Overnight: Stay in Lisbon.


Sunday, September 29: Lisbon to Lagos

Morning:

  • Explore Bairro Alto and Chiado: Visit the lively neighborhoods and the Carmo Convent ruins.
  • Brunch: The Mill – A mix of Australian-Portuguese cuisine in a laid-back setting.

Afternoon:

  • Travel to Lagos: Take an early afternoon train or drive to Lagos (approx. 4 hours).

Evening:

  • Dinner: Off-the-beaten-path: Casinha do Petisco – A local favorite for fresh seafood.
  • Must-see: O Camilo – Renowned for its stunning location and delicious food.

Overnight: Check into your lodging in Lagos.


Monday, September 30 to Wednesday, October 2: Exploring Lagos and the Algarve

Day 1 (Monday):

  • Morning: Ponta da Piedade: Explore these stunning cliffs and caves.
  • Lunch: Cantinho Algarvio – Traditional Algarve cuisine in the heart of Lagos.
  • Afternoon: Relax at Praia Dona Ana or take a boat tour to explore nearby grottoes.

Day 2 (Tuesday):

  • Day Trip to Sagres: Visit Cabo de São Vicente, the southwesternmost point of Europe. Explore the Fortress of Sagres and relax at Mareta Beach.
  • Lunch: A Sagres – A simple yet delicious local spot.
  • Dinner: Adega da Marina – A casual dining experience with a variety of Portuguese dishes.

Day 3 (Wednesday):

  • Off-the-beaten-path: Explore Monchique and the Foia Mountain for panoramic views.
  • Must-see: Spend the day in Tavira, a charming town with a rich history.
  • Dinner in Lagos: Nah Nah Bah – A fun spot known for its great burgers and lively atmosphere.

Thursday, October 3: Travel from Lagos to Porto

Morning:

  • Departure: Check out of your lodging and travel to Porto by train or rental car (approx. 5 hours).

Afternoon:

  • Lunch in Porto: Cantina 32 – Modern Portuguese cuisine in a trendy setting.
  • Explore Ribeira: Stroll through the historic Ribeira district and along the Douro River.

Evening:

  • Dinner: Off-the-beaten-path: Taberna Santo António – A cozy, family-run spot.
  • Must-see: Cervejaria Brasão Aliados – Known for its francesinha, a Porto specialty.

Overnight: Stay in Porto.


Friday, October 4: Explore Porto

Morning:

  • Livraria Lello: Visit this beautiful bookstore, one of the oldest in Portugal.
  • Clerigos Tower: Climb the tower for panoramic views of Porto.

Lunch:

  • Off-the-beaten-path: Apego – A small, intimate restaurant with a focus on local ingredients.
  • Must-see: Cafe Santiago – Another spot for a delicious francesinha.

Afternoon:

  • Port Wine Cellars: Cross the river to Vila Nova de Gaia and tour the famous Port wine cellars.

Evening:

  • Dinner: Off-the-beaten-path: Antiqvvm – Fine dining with a view.
  • Must-see: Ribeira Square – Dine at one of the many riverside restaurants.

Overnight: Stay in Porto.


Saturday, October 5: Douro Valley Day Trip

  • Morning to Afternoon: Enjoy your Wine Venture and Boat Trip in the Douro Valley. This experience will include visiting vineyards, tasting local wines, and exploring the scenic beauty of the valley.

Evening:

  • Return to Porto: Relax after your day trip.
  • Dinner: Off-the-beaten-path: VinUM Restaurant & Wine Bar – Excellent food paired with local wines.
  • Must-see: Pedro Lemos – A Michelin-starred restaurant offering a memorable dining experience.

Overnight: Stay in Porto.


Sunday, October 6: Day Trip to Aveiro

Morning:

  • Travel to Aveiro: Known as the "Venice of Portugal," this charming town is famous for its canals and colorful boats.

Lunch:

  • Local Specialty: Try ovos moles, a sweet treat typical of the region.

Afternoon:

  • Costa Nova: Visit the nearby coastal village of Costa Nova, known for its striped houses and beautiful beaches.

Evening:

  • Return to Porto: Enjoy a relaxing evening in Porto.
  • Dinner: Off-the-beaten-path: Casa de Chá da Boa Nova – A stunning seaside restaurant with exquisite dishes.

Overnight: Stay in Porto.

Monday, October 7: Transfer to Lisbon

Morning:

  • Travel to Lisbon: Depart Porto early in the morning by train or flight to maximize your last day in Lisbon.

Lunch:

  • Off-the-beaten-path: DOP Restaurante – Modern Portuguese cuisine by a renowned chef.
  • Must-see: Majestic Café – An iconic café known for its elegant Art Nouveau decor.

Afternoon:

  • Explore the Serralves Foundation: Visit this contemporary art museum and its beautiful gardens.
  • Relax or Shop: Stroll through the Rua de Santa Catarina for some last-minute shopping or relax at a local café.

Evening:

  • Dinner:
    • Off-the-beaten-path: O Paparico – A hidden gem offering traditional Portuguese cuisine.
    • Must-see: The Yeatman Hotel Restaurant – Enjoy a luxurious dining experience with a view.

Overnight: Stay in Lisbon.


Tuesday, October 8: Departure from Lisbon

Morning:

  • Brunch: If time allows, stop by Fábrica da Nata in Lisbon for a final taste of pastéis de nata.

Departure: 11:45 AM – LIS to BOS (Flight TP 217)

Arrival: 2:10 PM EDT in Boston


Thu, Sep 26
6:10 PM
EDT

Flight Number TP 218

Confirmation K7UECM

Terminal C

Arrive 9/27/2024 5:45 AM GMT+1

Mon, Sep 30

Check in 4:00 PM GMT+1

59 Rua Conselheiro Joaquim Machado, Lagos, 8600-682, Portugal

Thu, Oct 3

Check out 10:00 AM GMT+1

59 Rua Conselheiro Joaquim Machado, Lagos, 8600-682, Portugal

Sat, Oct 5
Tue, Oct 8
11:45 AM
GMT+1

Flight Number TP 217

Confirmation K7UECM

Terminal 1

Arrive 10/8/2024 2:10 PM EDT


Porto Portugal - https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2024/05/30/travel/things-to-do-porto.html


Itinerary

Friday

A person stands in a manicured garden, with several paved paths and a fountain in the center of the frame.

Jardins do Palácio de Cristal

5 p.m. Relax in a bucolic park

Gazing at the bridges and passing ships on the Douro River is a favorite Porto pastime. For sublime views far from the dense crush of the waterfront walkways, the Jardins do Palácio de Cristal, a manicured 19th-century park, is a relaxed, bucolic alternative and a favorite with locals. In addition to tree-shaded lookout points, the park includes ponds, fountains, lawns, flower beds and rotating art exhibitions in the free, multilevel Galeria Municipal do Porto. As you stroll, keep your ears open for the calls of the park's resident ducks and peacocks.


A person wearing a white t-shirt and an apron is working behind a bar in a restaurant that appears to be empty.

Cozinha das Flores

8 p.m. Eat an all-star dinner

After decades abroad, cooking alongside international legends (Wolfgang Puck, Ferran Adrià) and helming kitchens of beloved London restaurants (Viajante, Chiltern Firehouse), the chef Nuno Mendes has planted his flag once again in his native land, overseeing the precise neo-Portuguese cuisine at Cozinha das Flores, a year-old restaurant along the pedestrianized Rua das Flores. Try tasty tiny snacks (crunchy sourdough crackers with razor clams), elegant comfort food (Azores squid sliced into pasta-like strands with a zesty stew of chickpeas and cod tripe) and unusual desserts (ice cream, made from and resembling egg yolk, on ribbons of sugary, fried egg-yolk, sprinkled with ham shavings). Note the abstract drawings on the pink-and-green mosaic wall: the Pritzker Prize-winning architect (and Porto-region native) Álvaro Siza Vieira contributed both. Dinner for two costs about 120 euros, or about $130, without drinks.


People sit in chairs and banquettes in a dimly lit bar with red walls and orb-like light pendants suspended above.

Fiasco

10:30 p.m. Sip a quiet cocktail

If you’re keen to avoid thronged streets and blasting music — hallmarks of the Mardi Gras-like Clérigos nightlife district — head east to Bomfim, a laid-back bohemian neighborhood of art galleries and indie boutiques. Sporting red walls and red banquettes, Fiasco is both Porto’s sultriest new cocktail bar and a mecca for vinyl record collectors, thanks to numerous racks of rock, rap, indie, electro, world-beat and other albums for sale. A Lusco Fusco Groove cocktail (Ysabel Regina brandy, Campari, fortified Portuguese wine and coffee) runs you 9 euros. Down the street, Terraplana Café channels an old-time urban saloon (tin ceiling, checkerboard floor) while dispensing original cocktails. The back garden is perfect for a Tropicalia cocktail: ruby port, sparkling rosé and guava-hibiscus syrup, brightened with salt (€11).


A park with manicured lawns and flowers. A large modern dome of a building rises in the background.

The Super Bock Arena, also known as Pavilhão Rosa Mota, seen from the Jardins do Palácio de Cristal.


Saturday

Two people sit in armchairs in a museum space, looking at a flatscreen television mounted on the wall.

Álvaro Siza Wing

10 a.m. Admire art and architecture

Now 90 years old, Mr. Siza, the architect whose touches you spotted at Cozinha das Flores, has been keeping busy. This year, the Serralves Museum — a world-class contemporary art museum that he designed in the 1990s — added a splashy new wing that he also designed. Known as the Álvaro Siza Wing, the jagged white addition displays plans and models from the architect’s long international career, as well as works from the permanent collection, including strange fairy tale-like paintings from Paula Rego and abstract lithographs by Gerhard Richter. An apocalyptic installation by the Thai artist Korakrit Arunanondchai and a haunted playerless piano from the French artist Philippe Parreno are particularly potent. Admission to all buildings and grounds is €24.


A display of several wheels of cheese, some cut in half.

Mercado Bolhão

1 p.m. Test the market

Bearded and bespectacled, Joaquim Lucas resembles a scholar as he carefully slices presunto (€65 a kilo) from aged hocks of Alentejo ham. His stand, Charcutaria Princesa, is one of dozens inside Mercado Bolhão, a recently upgraded 19th-century covered food market in the city center that reopened in 2022. The smorgasbord also includes spice dealers, fruit sellers, cheese specialists, wine stands and more. Raw surf-and-turf comes courtesy of Casa das Ostras — which cracks open sea urchin (€5 each) and shucks Algarve oysters (three for €7) — and Talho do Toninho, a butcher stall serving toast slices topped with beef or deer tartare (€1.50). For dessert, Doçaria Portuguesa does a chocolate-rimmed pastel de nata (€2), the classic Portuguese egg tart. For a sit-down meal, several restaurants occupy the upper level. And a short walk south is a new food hall from Time Out, opened in May.


3 p.m. Digest some history

Strolling nearby Rua Santa Catarina, a car-free shopping boulevard, provides both a digestive walk and an architectural exhibition. Start at Capela das Almas, an 18th-century church covered with blue-and-white azulejos (added in 1929) depicting divine episodes filled with saints, apostles, magi and cherubs. Heading south, you can admire the Art Nouveau façade of A Perola do Bolhão, a fine-food shop dating to 1917, and the grand Belle Epoque interior of Café Majestic, which opened in 1921. Finally, stop in Praça da Batalha, home of the azulejo-covered Igreja de Santo Ildefonso, an 18th-century church, and the Batalha Centro de Cinema, a 1940s Art Deco movie theater that was restored and reopened in 2022. In addition to an eclectic roster of films, the center offers a library, bookshop and bar.


A person stands in a well decorated space, with a brown leather couch, textured concrete walls, textiles hanging on the walls, and various ceramic bowls displayed on a low table.

Coração Alecrim

5 p.m. Try on Portuguese fashion

Your Saturday night wardrobe awaits inside Labels of Tomorrow, a two-level international fashion emporium a few blocks north of Livraria Lello in the Cedofeita neighborhood. Portuguese labels take center stage, from button-up blue maritime jackets for men from Sanjo (€149.90) to gauzy takes on 1950s ladies’ bowling shirts (€130) by Mustique. After your fitting-room adventures, a terrace cafe-restaurant and a backyard bar provide refreshment for shopping fatigue — or fuel for another spree. If you prefer threads with history, the nearby Coração Alecrim shop sells vintage clothing — fur coats (€70), sheer paisley dresses (€40) — and its own line of retro-inspired jackets, shirts and more. A Japanese vegetarian cafe, Musubu Porto, is tucked in back.


7:30 p.m. Savor French-Portuguese flavors

If France is too far away, you can enjoy Gallic flavors at Apego, a homey little restaurant in a quiet street north of Trinidade train station. Global music echoes off the high stone walls and yellow banquettes as the Franco-Portuguese chef Aurora Goy reinvents local cuisine with dishes like a savory tarte tatin (which replaces apples with eggs and mushrooms) and a bed of pomme paillasson — a crispy-fried cake of shredded potato — topped with mackerel and leeks in white-wine sauce. Desserts include a French-style sablé biscuit with pear and custard-like sabayon incorporating Madeira wine. A three-course dinner for two, without wine, costs around €90.


People sit in a bar, which has red hanging light pendants and red chairs in the foreground.

Genuíno

10 p.m. Worship wine

Gallery district by day, the zone around Rua Miguel Bombarda morphs into a destination for wine lovers as night falls. Occupying an elegantly repurposed 19th-century chapel, Capela Incomum allows acolytes of the grape to sip vintages likes Lapa dos Gaivões (€4.50 a glass) — a smooth red blend from the Alentejo region — in its burgundy-painted lounge or tree-shaded front yard. A block away, Genuíno is a lively Brazilian-owned restaurant and natural-wine bar outfitted with a disco ball, playful wine-themed posters, and vintage tables and chairs. Most wines come from small regional producers, including an agreeably dry, concrete-aged orange wine from Folias de Baco (€5.50 a glass).


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