Portugal - Lisbon, Porto, Cascais and Algarve

Portugal is fascinating—again, much antiquity is buried under the sands of time, and it's serendipity when you find construction sites in Lisbon whose work is interrupted to preserve ancient Phoenician or Roman ruins. Like Sicily, this place was an interstate for all successive empires. 

Understanding the impact of the Jewish cartographers on Portugal's ascent changed how I have viewed Portugal's empire. Like many businesses that are first - the Portuguese were later eclipsed by Spain - the fortunes built on that empire seem not as impressive as those built in Spain. That's partly due to massive earthquakes demolishing much of what was built in the pre-1754 era.

We're now in Algarve - surrounded by German tourists on beach vacations - and I am looking past this to Porto already. 

Planning - Overview

Here’s a detailed itinerary for your trip to Portugal, focusing on must-see attractions and off-the-beaten-path experiences.

---

Friday, September 27: Arrival in Lisbon

Arrival: 5:45 AM

Morning:

• Breakfast: Nicolau Lisboa – Start your day with a healthy breakfast at this trendy café in the Baixa district.
• Explore Alfama: Wander through the narrow streets of Alfama, Lisbon’s oldest district. Visit the São Jorge Castle for panoramic views of the city.

Lunch:

• Off-the-beaten-path: Taberna Sal Grosso – A cozy spot with traditional Portuguese dishes in a casual setting.
• Must-see: Time Out Market – A gourmet food market offering a variety of dishes from renowned chefs.

Afternoon:

• Belém: Head to the Belém district. Visit the Jerónimos Monastery and Belém Tower.
• Pastry Stop: Don’t miss Pastéis de Belém for the famous custard tarts.

Evening:

• Dinner: Off-the-beaten-path: Pharmacia – A quirky restaurant with a beautiful view over the river.
• Must-see: Cervejaria Ramiro – Famous for its seafood, especially the garlic prawns.

Overnight: Stay in Lisbon for the night.

---

Saturday, September 28: Lisbon to Sintra and Cascais

Morning:

• Sintra: Take an early train to Sintra (30-40 mins from Lisbon). Visit the Pena Palace and Quinta da Regaleira.

Lunch:

• Sintra Village: Enjoy a meal at Tascantiga, offering local tapas and a cozy atmosphere.

Afternoon:

• Cascais: Take a short drive to Cascais. Stroll through the coastal town, visit the Boca do Inferno cliffs, and relax on the beach.

Evening:

• Dinner: Return to Lisbon and dine at Taberna da Rua das Flores for a mix of traditional and modern Portuguese cuisine.

Overnight: Stay in Lisbon.

---

Sunday, September 29: Lisbon to Lagos

Morning:

• Explore Bairro Alto and Chiado: Visit the lively neighborhoods and the Carmo Convent ruins.
• Brunch: The Mill – A mix of Australian-Portuguese cuisine in a laid-back setting.

Afternoon:

• Travel to Lagos: Take an early afternoon train or drive to Lagos (approx. 4 hours).

Evening:

• Dinner: Off-the-beaten-path: Casinha do Petisco – A local favorite for fresh seafood.
• Must-see: O Camilo – Renowned for its stunning location and delicious food.

Overnight: Check into your lodging in Lagos.

---

Monday, September 30 to Wednesday, October 2: Exploring Lagos and the Algarve

Day 1 (Monday):

• Morning: Ponta da Piedade: Explore these stunning cliffs and caves.
• Lunch: Cantinho Algarvio – Traditional Algarve cuisine in the heart of Lagos.
• Afternoon: Relax at Praia Dona Ana or take a boat tour to explore nearby grottoes.

Day 2 (Tuesday):

• Day Trip to Sagres: Visit Cabo de São Vicente, the southwesternmost point of Europe. Explore the Fortress of Sagres and relax at Mareta Beach.
• Lunch: A Sagres – A simple yet delicious local spot.
• Dinner: Adega da Marina – A casual dining experience with a variety of Portuguese dishes.

Day 3 (Wednesday):

• Off-the-beaten-path: Explore Monchique and the Foia Mountain for panoramic views.
• Must-see: Spend the day in Tavira, a charming town with a rich history.
• Dinner in Lagos: Nah Nah Bah – A fun spot known for its great burgers and lively atmosphere.

---

Thursday, October 3: Travel from Lagos to Porto

Morning:

• Departure: Check out of your lodging and travel to Porto by train or rental car (approx. 5 hours).

Afternoon:

• Lunch in Porto: Cantina 32 – Modern Portuguese cuisine in a trendy setting.
• Explore Ribeira: Stroll through the historic Ribeira district and along the Douro River.

Evening:

• Dinner: Off-the-beaten-path: Taberna Santo António – A cozy, family-run spot.
• Must-see: Cervejaria Brasão Aliados – Known for its francesinha, a Porto specialty.

Overnight: Stay in Porto.

---

Friday, October 4: Explore Porto

Morning:

• Livraria Lello: Visit this beautiful bookstore, one of the oldest in Portugal.
• Clerigos Tower: Climb the tower for panoramic views of Porto.

Lunch:

• Off-the-beaten-path: Apego – A small, intimate restaurant with a focus on local ingredients.
• Must-see: Cafe Santiago – Another spot for a delicious francesinha.

Afternoon:

• Port Wine Cellars: Cross the river to Vila Nova de Gaia and tour the famous Port wine cellars.

Evening:

• Dinner: Off-the-beaten-path: Antiqvvm – Fine dining with a view.
• Must-see: Ribeira Square – Dine at one of the many riverside restaurants.

Overnight: Stay in Porto.

---

Saturday, October 5: Douro Valley Day Trip

• Morning to Afternoon: Enjoy your Wine Venture and Boat Trip in the Douro Valley. This experience will include visiting vineyards, tasting local wines, and exploring the scenic beauty of the valley.

Evening:

• Return to Porto: Relax after your day trip.
• Dinner: Off-the-beaten-path: VinUM Restaurant & Wine Bar – Excellent food paired with local wines.
• Must-see: Pedro Lemos – A Michelin-starred restaurant offering a memorable dining experience.

Overnight: Stay in Porto.

---

Sunday, October 6: Day Trip to Aveiro

Morning:

• Travel to Aveiro: Known as the "Venice of Portugal," this charming town is famous for its canals and colorful boats.

Lunch:

• Local Specialty: Try ovos moles, a sweet treat typical of the region.

Afternoon:

• Costa Nova: Visit the nearby coastal village of Costa Nova, known for its striped houses and beautiful beaches.

Evening:

• Return to Porto: Enjoy a relaxing evening in Porto.
• Dinner: Off-the-beaten-path: Casa de Chá da Boa Nova – A stunning seaside restaurant with exquisite dishes.

Overnight: Stay in Porto.

Monday, October 7: Transfer to Lisbon

Morning:

• Travel to Lisbon: Depart Porto early in the morning by train or flight to maximize your last day in Lisbon.

Lunch:

• Off-the-beaten-path: DOP Restaurante – Modern Portuguese cuisine by a renowned chef.
• Must-see: Majestic Café – An iconic café known for its elegant Art Nouveau decor.

Afternoon:

• Explore the Serralves Foundation: Visit this contemporary art museum and its beautiful gardens.
• Relax or Shop: Stroll through the Rua de Santa Catarina for some last-minute shopping or relax at a local café.

Evening:

• Dinner:
  • Off-the-beaten-path: O Paparico – A hidden gem offering traditional Portuguese cuisine.
  • Must-see: The Yeatman Hotel Restaurant – Enjoy a luxurious dining experience with a view.

Overnight: Stay in Lisbon.

---

Tuesday, October 8: Departure from Lisbon

Morning:

• Brunch: If time allows, stop by Fábrica da Nata in Lisbon for a final taste of pastéis de nata.

Departure: 11:45 AM – LIS to BOS (Flight TP 217)

Arrival: 2:10 PM EDT in Boston

Thu, Sep 26

6:10 PM

EDT

BOS - LIS

Flight Number TP 218

Confirmation K7UECM

Terminal C

Arrive 9/27/2024 5:45 AM GMT+1

Edit Plan

Mon, Sep 30

Lodging

Check in 4:00 PM GMT+1

59 Rua Conselheiro Joaquim Machado, Lagos, 8600-682, Portugal

Edit Plan

Thu, Oct 3

Lodging

Check out 10:00 AM GMT+1

59 Rua Conselheiro Joaquim Machado, Lagos, 8600-682, Portugal

Edit Plan

Sat, Oct 5

8:30 AM

GMT+1

Wine Venture and Boat Trip in Douro Valley from Porto

Edit Plan

Tue, Oct 8

11:45 AM

GMT+1

LIS - BOS

Flight Number TP 217

Confirmation K7UECM

Terminal 1

Arrive 10/8/2024 2:10 PM EDT

Porto Portugal - https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2024/05/30/travel/things-to-do-porto.html

I

Paris for Taylor Swift? YES!!

With tickets for Taylor Swift going for $2000 each, we thought about how we could see her without coughing up like a lung. I found floor tickets for $600 each in Paris, so I snagged them. 

Now we're in Europe,... seems like a shame to just turn around and go home... So, revisiting our Central Europe itinerary; Budapest, Vienna, Krakow, Warsaw and Berlin with a side trip to Amsterdam to get some biking in!

PARIS

Paris - 36 hours around an event

I love Paris. I speak enough of the language to ingratiate myself to the locals, it seems. And because if been to Paris a half-dozen times I've started to figure out how to get the most out of short visits

First, it doesn't matter which arrondissement you are in. It's an easy city to trans navigate, made more so by Lime Bikes, which you can rent like an Uber. The metro is easy to use, too, and a good idea, especially during high traffic times. 

I love the less touristy areas, so though it's worth a trip to the Latin quarter and Mont Marte, walking or riding through La Mares and its pedestrian-only streets is buzzy and a good way to experience all of Paris’s food choices. 

On that, I have an American mindset on snacks and coffee that I will try hard to get over. I love fast, fresh dining in bowls assembled in front of me, but Europe isn't there yet, ESPECIALLY Paris. They want you to sit down and order, even if it's just a coffee. On a nice day, you should, too. It's part of the Paris experience. I don't smoke, and I feel like I should make it look so appealing. 

Other than the smoking, I am figuring out why they are generally more fit in appearance. It's not the gyms, which have some appeal but are not part of the landscape the way they are in the US. It's the fact that you still buy your groceries from neighborhood markets. On our street there were two butchers, two green grocers, a fish monger, a cheese vendor, two bakeries, a pasta store, flower stores too… boulangeirs with prepared meats, it means there is no processed food readily available… you have to make a special trip to the mini market for that. And you could almost figure out where you were blindfolded… the yeasty baking bread and croissant, the cheese, the roasting meat and fish mongers all with their distinctive smells.. especially the flowers.

We did two days of pretty intense walks. The second day was interspersed with rides to lighten the legs.

We landed Saturday morning and checked in. We stayed at the Le Metropolitan Tribute Hotel in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower in the 16th Arrondissement. That made a great jumping-off point as gardens and museums are just down the street. You need museums because Paris can be Gray and rainy. When it's nice out, don't go to museums. WALK !! It was too nice when we were there to go to museums. So we powered through our Jet Lag and went down to the Eiffel Tower, to the Tuilliaire Gardens, Notre Dame, Champs Elysee, and to the Arc de Triomphe. 

Day two set us on a mission to pick up a friend's left-behind shopping bag in the Latin Quarter, so we rode there and walked across the bridge through La Marais, a street market, up to St George and Mont Marte before heading back to get ready to see Taylor Swift at the La Defense arena.

Getting from any arena after a concert is like another lifetime - the high is gone, and you’re just trying to get home. A cab driver wanted to charge $150 to get us back to Paris. No Ubers around. So we took the Metro. Easy. Lots of trains. We met lots of other fans. At Arc de Triomphe, we changed trains, and what ensued was a literal ant farm, walking 10 minutes underground; up, down, up again, over, turn, turn again, out into the vestibule, through another turnstile (good thing I kept the paper fare chit), down, down, over and down and up and down… I kid you not.

That, Ladies and Gentlemen, is 36 hours in Paris. Groggily, we moved on, piled our belongings into Uber, and headed to Orly.