My cousin said "New York reveals itself so easily, not like L.A. or other cities which can begrudgingly release their charms." While this is true - New York rewards you the minute you step outside your Midtown Hotel with wonders like Grand Central Station and Rockefeller Center - it can also be coy; a multitude of layers, so that on a street that you've wandered 100 times you suddenly notice something new.
Muddied by prospects of rain, our post- Ess-a-Bagel plan for a Manhattan trek became hop onto the Lexington Avenue 6 for a ride to the Brooklyn Bridge and an unfruitful quest for discount TKTS at the Seaport. Then through of charity marchers in teal t-shirts. impeding our crossing as we headed towards Smorgasburg. Coming down the bridge into Brooklyn, we noticed the ferry at the base of the bridge and decided to take a boat ride to the food fest. This doubled as a break from the rain (type 32, steady random dripping - enough to dampen your shirt and hair, but not enough to demand an umbrella or shelter).
Coming off the bridge is a little disorienting with all the motor traffic, but if you head off the most direct route to the landing, you're suddenly in a quiet neighborhood. At an apparent dead end, you find an wandering elevated ramp providing access to DUMBO, the East River ferry port. At the ferry port, a curious fountain varietal - a whirlpool vortex representing the treacherous swirling East River currents - provided a moment to wonder. These types of found moments exhibit why, even though you've taken the route 100 times, it never gets boring - one new turn can yield a bright new discovery.
Smorgasburg is its own post - a weekly Saturday food festival which springs up in the East River Park. We've been here before and keep coming back because, well, the food, but also the setting with its panoramic view of the Manhattan skyline. I went for duck, this time. Karen reprised our long wait for slow smoked beef ribs, Alberto had crispy pork bits on dense corn and potato, and Karen B snagged some dumplings and a sweet Kimchee pickle fusion. People watching, drinks in the beer garden. Thusly replenished, we moved on.
A brief detour up and down Williamsburg's main drag and then catch the L train to Union Square, with SoHo in our sights. This time, our progress through NYU's campus is interrupted by a multicultural parade which dissects or path.
In SoHo, the girls find great deals in a hidden boutique at 65 - at 65 E Spring at Cleveland. Then back up Bleeker to the East Village for drinks and nourishment at the Spotted Pig. Can we make it home on foot? Maybe if gelato at Eataly is our waypoint?..., but after the sugar fest, we find that 12 hours of walking might be enough, and cab the return trip to our hotel.
Ess-A-Bagel - 3rd & 49th - It's true that New York water must have something to do with the quality of bagels here. Beyond that, though it doesn't have the historical credentials of Katz's, Ess-A-Bagel stands out among breakfast delis, mostly because of the smoked fish varieties and the overall superiority of their bagels. Chewy, without being doughy. Crisp, without being hard. Thoughtfully flavored without being overpowered. They say that the Everything Bagel is the scrapple of the bagel world, but that doesn't dissuade me from the toasted wheat everything with smoked trout. I'm trying to eat fewer carbs, but this is kryptonite.
Smorgasburg - East River Park, Williamsburg - A juried collection of food venders who hawk their unusual or featured dishes. We opted out of the International Food Festival on 9th Avenue to come here instead. There is only one of each food type, so you get a panoply instead of the commonly repeated favorites. Everything from duck fries to ramenburgers eaten overlooking the Manhattan skyline.
The Spotted Pig - W 11th & Greenwich Street - Craft cocktails - specifically the Manhattan - with the buzz of a local favorite gastropub. "Without reservations, we can seat you between 10:30 and 11:00 tonight. Would that be okay?" We'll just sit at the bar, and in the true European style, once we find our hangout, we stay. British style deviled eggs, string fries and gorgonzola burgers.
Restaurant & Food Stops
Ess-A-Bagel - 3rd & 49th - It's true that New York water must have something to do with the quality of bagels here. Beyond that, though it doesn't have the historical credentials of Katz's, Ess-A-Bagel stands out among breakfast delis, mostly because of the smoked fish varieties and the overall superiority of their bagels. Chewy, without being doughy. Crisp, without being hard. Thoughtfully flavored without being overpowered. They say that the Everything Bagel is the scrapple of the bagel world, but that doesn't dissuade me from the toasted wheat everything with smoked trout. I'm trying to eat fewer carbs, but this is kryptonite.
Smorgasburg - East River Park, Williamsburg - A juried collection of food venders who hawk their unusual or featured dishes. We opted out of the International Food Festival on 9th Avenue to come here instead. There is only one of each food type, so you get a panoply instead of the commonly repeated favorites. Everything from duck fries to ramenburgers eaten overlooking the Manhattan skyline.
The Spotted Pig - W 11th & Greenwich Street - Craft cocktails - specifically the Manhattan - with the buzz of a local favorite gastropub. "Without reservations, we can seat you between 10:30 and 11:00 tonight. Would that be okay?" We'll just sit at the bar, and in the true European style, once we find our hangout, we stay. British style deviled eggs, string fries and gorgonzola burgers.
