September 16, 2013
Like many places that don't hold a "tourist" elan, Beijing conjures images of pollution, overpopulation, oppressive government. But like the joke "eat Chinese food; a billion people can't be wrong!" I saw that this country was opening up, and becoming westernized in the process. The Hutong - intricate city villages, with twisting walkways and communal bathrooms where most urban Chinese traditionally lived - were being levelled and replaced with 32-story highrises. Before long, this part of China would be erased. Westernization has already changed the cities, with downtowns now nearly indistinguishable from western metros, those streets emblazoned with Prada, Gucci, Apple and Mercedes storefronts, outpacing Mandarin names. Now was the time.
That was MY answer to my friends asking "Why China?" My travel partner required a little more convincing, though. Fortunately there is much to wonder at here, from a tourist's perspective. So I bartered my trekking exploration of Beijing's Hutong in exchange for a trip to the Forbidden City and The Great Wall. It was a trade that paid off both ways.
Created with flickr slideshow.
The doormen at our hotel were astonished when I refused a taxi to the Forbidden City - a 15 minute walk. This confirms what we know; people think Americans are lazy. Not that there is an abundance of things to see along the way, but walking downtown Beijing offers an insight into the peculiar evolution to 21st century China. Massive traffic jams, but streets are not so crowded that you could not easily walk.
One strange phenomenon for me; my internal compass, normally accurate, got spun 180 degrees in our downtown location. This rarely happens to me. Perhaps it's the reverse polarity of the earth's magnetic field, having plopped down, quite literally, on the other side of the earth. More likely, Beijing's pollution obscured the sun, so rainy or not, I can't tell east or west from the position of the sun.
One evening we walked downtown and found a hybrid street market with food sellers. We had been warned NOT to eat street food. First, our digestive systems could not handle the bacteria. Second, and more importantly, the pollution in the food, which the Chinese have become inured to, could literally poison us. This market, with its uniform stalls and licenses, seemed worth the risk. I would try a few things - delicious - and skip others, like the tarantula or scorpion.
Again, the feeling of being in a western city was potent. A visit to a western style multi-story shopping mall made my wife feel right at home. Pedestrian avenues in the shopping district give the Broadway-like feel of a vibrant night life. What's different in these eastern cities; much exists below the surface that you cannot possibly find things without knowing or having someone show you where they are. We're used to the storefront being the storefront. Here, as in many other eastern cities, the front is just the prime real estate; underground, in the back or in a catacomb of mezzanines there's another layer of stores, stalls, restaurants and offices. We found this here in downtown Beijing, but even more so in more land-constricted areas like Hong Kong. So, if you see people entering and exiting a small, unobtrusive doorway, even without signs, that likely represents a beehive or concealed activity... Go in!
Like many places that don't hold a "tourist" elan, Beijing conjures images of pollution, overpopulation, oppressive government. But like the joke "eat Chinese food; a billion people can't be wrong!" I saw that this country was opening up, and becoming westernized in the process. The Hutong - intricate city villages, with twisting walkways and communal bathrooms where most urban Chinese traditionally lived - were being levelled and replaced with 32-story highrises. Before long, this part of China would be erased. Westernization has already changed the cities, with downtowns now nearly indistinguishable from western metros, those streets emblazoned with Prada, Gucci, Apple and Mercedes storefronts, outpacing Mandarin names. Now was the time.
That was MY answer to my friends asking "Why China?" My travel partner required a little more convincing, though. Fortunately there is much to wonder at here, from a tourist's perspective. So I bartered my trekking exploration of Beijing's Hutong in exchange for a trip to the Forbidden City and The Great Wall. It was a trade that paid off both ways.
Beijing's Hutong Trek - Tied Together with North and South Drum Towers
Created with flickr slideshow.
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| A bustling Hutong throughway |
The doormen at our hotel were astonished when I refused a taxi to the Forbidden City - a 15 minute walk. This confirms what we know; people think Americans are lazy. Not that there is an abundance of things to see along the way, but walking downtown Beijing offers an insight into the peculiar evolution to 21st century China. Massive traffic jams, but streets are not so crowded that you could not easily walk.
One strange phenomenon for me; my internal compass, normally accurate, got spun 180 degrees in our downtown location. This rarely happens to me. Perhaps it's the reverse polarity of the earth's magnetic field, having plopped down, quite literally, on the other side of the earth. More likely, Beijing's pollution obscured the sun, so rainy or not, I can't tell east or west from the position of the sun.
 |
| We did NOT eat tarantulas |
One evening we walked downtown and found a hybrid street market with food sellers. We had been warned NOT to eat street food. First, our digestive systems could not handle the bacteria. Second, and more importantly, the pollution in the food, which the Chinese have become inured to, could literally poison us. This market, with its uniform stalls and licenses, seemed worth the risk. I would try a few things - delicious - and skip others, like the tarantula or scorpion.
